It sounds like a bold statement, but eyebrow shapes capture moments in time in a way that no other facial feature can. From Hollywood's Golden Age, during which actors compensated for silent roles with expressive sky-high arches, to fluffy '80s brows during the decade of excess, brows can give us a snapshot of the cultural and beauty zeitgeist through the ages. Impressive for a little bit of facial hair, no?
In 2023, we're still leaning towards a fuller, more natural look in stark contrast to the skinny, high-maintenance arches of the '90s and '00s (though those do seem to be making a bit of a comeback among Gen Z). Regardless, experts across the board agree that the best eyebrow shapes are actually not at all trend-based. Just as the best mascara is one that makes the most of your natural lashes, the answer to how to shape eyebrows is to work with what nature gave you.
"Different shaped faces suit different brows, and the best way of working it out is to see it as a balancing act," says Vanita Parti MBE, founder of Blink Brow Bar. "If you have a long-ish face, then flat brows with a lower arch are perfect. If you have a heart-shaped face, then a raised Marylin Monroe-type arch works brilliantly.” Whether you desire a bushier, laminated eyebrows look, or want subtle, precise definition, this expert guide will help you find a flattering, face-framing shape.
The best eyebrow shapes for everybody, explained by the experts
1. Straight and full
Perhaps one of the most iconic and sought-after eyebrow shapes has to be Audrey Hepburn's straight and full style. Her famous arches (or, should we say, lack thereof) are best displayed in the silver screen classic, Breakfast At Tiffany’s. "The Audrey continues to be the most requested brow design at our boutique,” confirms Sherrille Riley, founder and CEO of Nails & Brows Mayfair.
Straight eyebrow shapes bring attention to the eyes while enhancing the cheekbones and give a more angular structure to the upper eye area overall. It's also good to note that, being on the fuller side, the style requires a minimal amount of upkeep – which adds to its appeal.
Gamines Natalie Portman, Jennifer Connelly, and Brooke Shields with a straight and full eyebrow shape
Who suits straight and full eyebrow shapes?
These straighter and thicker brows feature a slight drop at the tail and frame long and heart-shaped faces perfectly.
How to achieve straight and full eyebrows
"To achieve the look, you must first abandon your arch," says Fides Baldesberger, CEO and owner of Rubis Tweezers. "Go to the end of your eyebrow near the tail and tweeze off the hairs that go downward. This will allow your eyebrows to appear straighter. However, be super careful not to take off too much; your eyebrows should still have a good length across your eye."
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2. Classic arch
This timeless, feminine, tapered look is effortlessly glam and looks groomed but not unnatural. Cindy Crawford is a great modern example of this screen icon-inspired shape; her natural arch brings structure to her face while the soft but tidy edges don’t look as though they’ve been carved out.
The classic arch is called as such for a reason: it's one that's stood the test of time and that many women know and love. "This brow style has really captivated our clientele, especially because of the trend of the in-salon brow lamination treatment, which is all about straightening the brow hairs to make the arches look fluffy and natural," Riley tells us.
Priyanka Jonas, Angelina Jolie, and Catherine Zeta-Jones with classic arch eyebrow shapes
Who suits the classic arch eyebrow shape?
As far as eyebrow shapes go, the classic arch is pretty diplomatic in that it flatters most face shapes. It particularly provides a nice counterpoint to a narrow chin area, which is why a lot of Old Hollywood, classically feminine-featured actresses sport this style.
How to achieve classic arch eyebrows
If your natural eyebrows have a similar arch – which is, to say, soft but defined and slightly tapering upwards and thinning towards the tail – tweezing on the outer side of each eye will help enhance them and open up your face. Your makeup mirror will come in handy for precision here. Want to fluff them up a bit at home? "[Try] brushing up the brow hairs with skin coming through and minimal use of the best eyebrow pencils and powders, for a more natural, less defined look,” Baldesberger says.
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3. Soft arch
This hint of an arch is similar to the straight brow but noticeably less fluffy and is often a little thinner. Actor and producer Kerry Washington is a perfect example of this look. For the low commitment, it's also a great way to try the popular Korean straight-brow trend (sometimes referred to as 'boy brow'), without going full-on horizontal.
"We call this one the non-surgical cat eye lift," says Baldesberger. "It consists of fuller brows with a minimal arch and a tail that drops at the ends in a subtle manner." These eyebrow shapes are amazing at accentuating deep-set eyes – just look at the way that Adele takes hers one step further with a killer cut crease eyeshadow look and impeccable cat-eye liner.
Adele, Jennifer Aniston, and Emma Watson with softly arched eyebrow shapes
Who suits soft arch eyebrow shapes?
Those with an oval or square face can pull off this style particularly well with beautiful results. It's a soft, shape that's relatively unobtrusive and, with the underside of the brow kept clean, really opens up the eye area.
How to achieve this shape
The soft taper does demand careful and judicious use of tweezers, according to Baldesberger. "Plucking one hair at a time and then standing back and reviewing in a mirror will help to stop over-plucking," she advises. "Avoid plucking out a new shape by overplucking underneath your brows. Focus on the strays, and if in doubt use one of the best eyebrow gels, powders, or pomades to draw in your natural shape and give you a clear indication of which hairs to avoid."
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4. High arch
Not to be confused with the ultra-skinny, high-arched '90s brow, this style is far more wearable and up-to-date. It's the perfect balance between making a statement and still retaining a classic, groomed feel, as actor and producer Viola Davis perfectly showcases here.
Higher arches are a sharp look, and have the ability to refine our facial features and give them a "well-groomed" feel. “This trend is for those that prefer a defined brow with a natural finish. Clean lines, a lighter feathered front, and structured arch," says Laurretta Power, National Brow Artist and Head of Artistry at Benefit Cosmetics.
Charlize Theron, Taraji P. Henson, and Christina Aguilera with high arch eyebrow shapes
Who suits high arch eyebrow shapes?
Those with square faces, inverted triangle faces (wider foreheads and sharp chins), or those with more prominent jawlines in general benefit from the balanced proportion offered up by these sharper peaks.
How to achieve high arch eyebrows
Working with what nature gave you, identify the perfect point of your arch to taper with a spot of brow mapping. Then, take a pencil and rest it against the outside of your nostril at a 45-degree angle, going past your pupil. The spot where the pencil intersects your brow points to where the brow arch should begin. Our beauty editor's tip: Ensure your brows are one to two shades darker than your hair color for extra definition. This can be achieved with regular beauty treatments at a salon or through eyebrow tinting at home.
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5. Rounded
Not everybody is born with a sharp arch but, just like we see here on Julia Roberts, that can definitely work in your favor. Rounded brows tend to boast length and a smooth curved shape all of their own, which can really help to open up your features.
The rounded eyebrow is a masterclass in resisting the temptation to fight what nature gave you and simply neatening things up instead, and has remained popular into 2023. Enhance your rainbow brows by keeping the tail a tad higher and longer past the outer eye for a lifted look.
Sweet faces Rachel Weisz, Drew Barrymore, and Zoe Saldana with rounded eyebrow shapes
Who suits rounded eyebrow shapes?
Rounded eyebrow shapes are generally seen as optimistic and peppy, particularly on inverted triangle-shaped and square-shaped faces, which benefit from the curved shape to provide some flattering balance.
How to achieve rounded eyebrows
If your eyebrows are naturally round or rainbow-shaped, maintaining their natural curve with a tiny bit of grooming and enhancement, using your best eyebrow pencil, will make for a super flattering look. Of sticking with your natural shape when shaping, Baldesberger says: "This means all the strays are removed, including thickness throughout the brow right to the tail and [with] a slight arch – so nothing exaggerated."
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6. Bushy
The way that Salma Hayek has been wearing her brows of late is the perfect example of full brows – well-groomed but undoubtedly bushy. While they don't quite have the sharp upward look of eyebrow lamination, we don't doubt that a professional's hands have graced the shape in one way or another, but the overall effect is brushed up and au naturel.
In recent years it's been a case of the bigger the better as far as brows are concerned, and a smattering of wayward strands around the inner brow area is to be embraced. "Many clients used the lockdowns as an opportunity to regrow their brows into a thicker, fuller look," Riley tells us. "Now, they want us to shape up their brows while boasting a thicker look."
Solange, Zoe Kravitz, and Cara Delevingne with bushy brows
Who suits bushy eyebrow shapes?
Anyone lucky enough to be endowed with naturally fulsome facial follicles! This bold shape has an earthy feel that can give otherwise super-delicate features a shot of edge. These eyebrow shapes can create the illusion of a slimmer, longer nose as well as being fabulously low maintenance (potentially zero maintenance) So put down your tweezers and adopt this effortless style if that's what you're going for.
How to achieve bushy eyebrows
Ideally, do very little to them and focus on growth. Brow expert Shavata Singh, speaking to Treatwell, suggests applying castor oil to them each day, saying: “There’s no better way to get thicker, fuller brows”. If you must tweeze, do so near the tail; the "ungroomed" strands underneath and nearest the eyelid only add to the fabulously textured feel and are best left alone. If you have sparse or thin brows and dream of a full shape like this, having your eyebrows microbladed might be a good way to cheat the look, too.
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