After years of being on adapalene (a prescription retinol cream) and getting along well with it, in 2023 I made the switch to tretinoin. The latter is considered one of the strongest retinoids available and is used to treat acne and signs of ageing. While it was one of the most Googled skincare ingredients of 2024, tretinoin is not for everyone – as I soon found out.
Despite a year of persisting, I eventually gave up after experiencing extreme dryness and breakouts. These symptoms are part of something colloquially referred to as the 'retinol purge', which is common in anyone using topical retinoids for the first time – be it on prescription or in products you can buy in the shops, like the best retinol creams and serums.
As a strong active, retinol takes some getting used to, and skin can 'freak out' and experience dryness and flaking before it settles and continues to improve with consistent use. That is certainly what happened to me, but as I discovered, the right skincare can go a long way to help the situation...
How I navigated retinol flaking, and the creams that helped
In my experience, sometimes retinol as an ingredient – in some forms – can be too strong. This isn’t to say you should give up on retinoids altogether; if you’ve persevered for around 6–8 weeks and the purge still hasn’t improved, it may just be best to have a break or look to reduce the strength of your product (I have since gone back to adapalene after healing my skin).
What I was left with after my year on tretinoin was a severely damaged skin barrier that desperately needed healing. This was achieved by stripping back my skincare routine, focusing on gentle formulations to build back up my skin barrier – and an occlusive, deeply hydrating and nourishing cream became a must for me.
The following products are the creams I turned to in my time of need that helped my skin drastically. So if you’re going through a retinol purge – or are just experiencing general sensitivity and dryness – you can rely on one of these.
My favourite products to soothe retinol flaking
RRP: £38
Given its trendy, modern marketing and celebrity creator, some may fail to consider trying Rhode’s new Barrier Butter as an antidote to sore retinol purge skin, but they’d most certainly be missing out: this has quickly become one of my go-to saviours. It soothes, doesn’t irritate even the driest and most painful purges, and leaves skin with a glossy, hydrated finish. I absolutely adore the texture: rich and yet emulsive when applied. And the ingredients list? You’ll recognise everything from hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid to ceramides and murumuru butter in there.
RRP: £55
The perfect accompaniment to Shani Darden’s bestselling Retinol Reform product, this cream became my saviour on my hardest skin days. For those who prefer more of a ‘lotion’ texture than a heavy cream, this is ideal as it manages to feel lightweight and refreshing whilst still deeply hydrating and nourishing skin. It harnesses the power of shea butter, squalane and glycerin to comfort and build skin back up to its former glory.
RRP: £34
Whenever I’m having a skin wobble, I always know I can turn to Dr Sam’s for expert advice and product recommendations. It’s just one of those brands that knows skin, particularly when it’s in peril. I know I can always rely on its Moisturiser Intense, which has been designed for skin that’s dry or sensitive when it’s in need most. Featuring ectoin and lactobacillus to rebuild the skin’s moisture barrier and prevent further water loss, it also has a lovely lightweight texture while still feeling rich.
RRP: £32
I’m actually a little surprised I’m including this Dr.Jart+ cream and not the Ceramidin one, which I do love. But Cicapair is the formula that’s really had my back during this recent purge. I absolutely adore the luxurious-feeling texture, its soothing nature that addresses dryness and redness, and its inclusion of Centella Asiatica in its ingredients list, which improves the skin’s delicate barrier. I also love the So Soothing Treatment from this range, which is like an intensified version of the cream for extra-sore bits.
RRP: £132
I know, I know, including a La Mer cream to soothe a retinol purge seems extravagant. But let me tell you: this is one of the moisturisers I find always helps, no matter what. It’s especially good during winter months when you need that extra occlusive layer. This is incredibly soothing, counteracts any irritation skin is experiencing, and just feels ultra-luxurious and decadent to use, which makes sense given its price tag! If you feel like treating yourself, this doubles up as a normal moisturiser for when your skin is feeling better, too.
RRP: £19
I’ve never known a moisturiser to cause more of a stir in the beauty editor community than this one. Seriously – there is not a single peer I know of who does not rate this. It has a gorgeously light texture that feels almost water-cream-like and is packed full of restorative ceramides and comforting shea butter to boost hydration. This really is one of the greatest high street options to save skin.
RRP: £65
The goal of Dermalogica’s cream is to return that all-important skin barrier to its former glory, which is usually the easiest way to get skin back on track and to prevent further retinol breakouts or dryness. It absolutely achieves this goal, and then some. If the idea of super heavy, thick creams is like your own personal nightmare, give this a go; it’s featherlight, but still feels cosy and comforting on the skin. Ceramides are essential for skin barrier health, and this ingredient list is packed full of them.
RRP: £19
Another brilliant affordable option, there’s little La Roche-Posay’s Cicaplast can’t do. It’s suitable for sensitive, dry, sore or irritated skin, working to repair areas that are going through the worst with 5% panthenol, glycerin and shea butter. It’s even suitable for new tattoos, as well as other areas on the body.
What ingredients are best for retinol flaking?
I found many ingredients that worked for my skin when it was at its most irritated and, while a rich texture is often important, it’s the ingredients that make a product most effective. “Look for ingredients like ceramides, centella, panthenol, glycerin, niacinamide and slightly thicker textures to help deal with dryness and calm the skin,” advises Dr. Sonia Khorana, cosmetic doctor and dermatology expert, “and avoid any physical exfoliation to avoid damaging the skin barrier.”
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