If you’re interested in skincare, you’ve probably heard of retinol. This Vitamin A derivative is one of the most talked-about active ingredients in beauty. But, for every fan breathlessly raving about it’s texture and tone-improving powers (true) there’s a red-faced detractor pointing out its potential to irritate and increase sun sensitivity (also true)
You’d be forgiven for being put off entirely, but it is absolutely worth having a go. Begin your retinol journey in an informed way, and it is possible to enjoy all of the skincare benefits this hero active has to offer while giving side effects a swerve. Here’s everything you need to know.
What is retinol?
Retinol is destabilised by UV light and due to its natural exfoliation powers can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so only use it at night. Apply your retinol product straight after cleansing so it penetrates unhindered. A pea-sized amount will do your face, chest and neck. There is some debate about whether or not to use retinol around the delicate eye area. Most experts agree that as long as your skin can tolerate it, retinol can be an excellent ingredient to use on concerns such as crow’s feet, as it’s known to thicken and strengthen the skin.
How do I start using retinol?
With such potency comes a risk of irritation and dryness, particularly in sensitive skin, so the trick is starting with a low dosage and only using it once or twice a week to build up your tolerance. The maximum percentage of pure retinol available in over the counter products is 1%, so it’s a good idea to start with less than 0.5%. Picking products that contain calming ingredients as well as retinol will also help your skin tolerate it as you build up. No7 Advanced Retinol 1.5% Complex Night Concentrate is a fantastic starting point, as it combines 0.3% pure retinol in a slow release encapsulated form, plus bisabolol, a soothing extract derived from chamomile.
When should I apply retinol?
Retinol is destabilised by UV light and due to its natural exfoliation powers can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so only use it at night. Apply your retinol product straight after cleansing so it penetrates unhindered. A pea-sized amount will do your face, chest and neck. There is some debate about whether or not to use retinol around the delicate eye area. Most experts agree that as long as your skin can tolerate it, retinol can be an excellent ingredient to use on concerns such as crow’s feet, as it’s known to thicken and strengthen the skin.
Which other products can I use with retinol?
After applying retinol, go in with calming and hydrating skincare to counteract irritation. As with any active, retinol is happier to mix with some ingredients than others. For example, gentle antioxidants like ferulic acid can make retinol even more effective. Steer clear of using retinol on the same night as powerful exfoliators like glycolic and salicylic acid, as these themselves can cause dryness or irritation. As retinol pushes fresh skin up to the surface it is crucial to protect those peachy baby cells by using SPF every day. No excuses now, formulas these days are as comfortable and weightless as they’ve ever been.