Lip contouring is the 'soft', subtle way to cheat a fuller pout, say makeup pros

Think about how you use your favourite bronzer, then apply the same principle to your lips - easy!

A verticle image of a woman with curly hair and wearing silver hoop earrings, applying a dark pink lip crayon to her top lip line/ in a pink, watercolour paint-style template template
(Image credit: Getty Images/Maskot)

If you're not a lover of obviously lined lips but still want to achieve a fuller or more defined pout, lip contouring is the technique to try.

Unlike the best lip liners, which are designed to precisely trace and enhance the shape of your lips, a so-called 'contouring' lip product is softer and works to diffuse the line of your lips. Just as your best bronzers and trusty contour sticks (we love Westman Atelier's Face Trace) add shadow and depth to your face, the idea of contouring your lips is to give the appearance of fullness - with tactical placement and a touch of blending.

It comes as several beauty brands, like REFY and Rhode, have launched more rounded, crayon-like liners, designed to 'blur' rather than overline in the pursuit of plumper-looking lips. So, we've asked the pros to detail the trick and rounded up the perfect formulas to try it with.

What is lip contouring? The enhancing trick we're seeing everywhere

As mentioned, the idea behind contouring your lips is all about adding subtle fullness and shadow, as opposed to carving out the natural edge of your lips - as you might with a rose-nude pencil liner (Charlotte Tilbury's Lip Cheat in Pillow Talk, for instance).

Danielle Nichol, Product Director at REFY Beauty explains, "Lip contouring allows you to achieve a diffused and fuller-looking lip," and while the process is similar, Nichol adds that, "Traditional lip liner is outlining your lips for definition," whereas lip contouring is all about creating fullness in a soft and natural way, without any harsh or overly precise lines.

What lip liner formula works best for contouring?

"Invest in a lip liner designed to contour the lips." says Nichol. Products with creamy, blendable formulas as opposed to quick-drying and smudge-proof ones will work best for this technique, as will liners with more rounded, crayon-like tips.

What lip liner shade should you use for contouring?

Nichol says to invest in a shade that is "as close to or matches your natural lip colour," as this will afford subtlety.

Pay attention to the undertone of your skin, too and opt for a liner that matches, as you would with your bronzer or contour products.

How to contour your lips

This comes down to personal preference, but we would recommend lining your lips as you would with a pencil liner, then instead of trying to achieve a very straight and symmetrical shape, blur and diffuse the line with your finger or a lip brush (like this lip brush from Boots). If you've opted for a shade close to your natural colour, this will give your lips a fuller appearance. Then, simply top with one of the best tinted lip balms or best lip oils, for an elevated but understated look.

We've also seen this contouring technique applied specifically to the cupid's bow (the little U-shape on your top lip) to soften the shape and give the illusion of more volume in your top lip.

Using a slightly darker shade (perhaps matching your contour shade), you can also apply your liner in the centre of your lower lip liner - or just under it - and blend it to create a 'shadow' under your lip for a more pronounced pout.

REFY say to use their Blur Liner at the beginning of your lip routine and to outline your natural lip line - with no softening or blending required, as the formula is designed to be buildable. You can then add to specific areas and apply more pressure, to add depth and more structure to your lips.

Naomi Jamieson
Digital Beauty Writer

Naomi is a Digital Beauty Writer at woman&home, where she covers everything from makeup to skincare but specialises, particularly, in fragrance and nail trends. Through her work, Naomi shares her trend expertise and personal product recommendations. She is also a judge for woman&home's annual hair, skincare and beauty awards.

Previously, she worked as a Lifestyle News Writer for My Imperfect Life magazine, where she used her savvy for TikTok to bring readers the latest beauty buzzwords, fashion movements and must-have products.

Before that, Naomi split her time between both GoodTo and My Imperfect Life, whilst training for her Gold Standard diploma in Journalism with the NCTJ, for which she earned a Distinction. Interestingly though, Naomi actually has a background in design, having studied Illustration at Plymouth University but leapt into the media world in 2020, to pursue her passion for writing. Now, when she isn’t reporting on the best perfumes and latest beauty releases, you can find her drinking copious cups of coffee and probably online shopping...