Learning how to apply eyeliner is one of those life goals some of us would happily spend one of three wishes on should we encounter a magic lamp. World peace, unlimited champagne and the ability to draw perfect feline flicks every time? Yep, sounds good to me.
Whether you are a habitual liner wearer or have been scared off by unsuccessful attempts, gaining solid eyeliner skills is an ambition that—unlike a free champagne tap—is very much achievable for all. All you need to do is pick the right product, learn which look will flatter your eyes and take on board a few professional application tricks.
And what if it all goes wrong? That's fine too. Much like loading on the best mascara, the road to eyeliner success is paved with smudges. Even the pros keep a clean-up kit handy for when the inevitable happens, so just know that whatever comes your way we've got you covered.
How to apply eyeliner: your complete guide
Picking a liner—pencil vs liquid and gel
The first step in learning how to apply eyeliner is much the same as learning how to apply concealer or picking the best foundation—a lot rests on selecting the best eyeliner for the job. Broadly speaking liners fall into three categories; pencils, gels and liquids, which then branch out into their own little subsets of felt-tip style nibs, inky pen pots, paint-on vinyl gels, and more.
"Both pencil and liquids are wonderful and depend on your choice of eyeliner looks. Just as you do not wear the same clothes every day, this is the same with make-up," says A-list make-up artist Ruby Hammer. Here's how to decide which will suit you:
- Pencil eyeliner: "Pencils are more forgiving and can be blended or set with a matching eye shadow for longevity and more emphasis," says Ruby. MAC Cosmetics Artist Carly Utting agrees that pencils offer more margin for error. "Lining the eyes with a soft pencil can give the same defined look as a liquid with a softer, more romantic feel and without the ‘hold your breath and hope for the best’ fear of using a liquid."
- Liquid eyeliner: "Liquid liners are dramatic by nature, so once you get the hang of using them they are great," says Ruby. "The striking simplicity of liquid liner allows you to be completely in control of the look you want to achieve, but beginners could perhaps use a pencil to start out and build up confidence."
- Gel eyeliner: Your third option, gel, offers the glossy, lasting pigment of a liquid but is usually painted on from a pot with a brush. Despite appearing a bit more fiddly than pencils or liquids, gels can actually be very beginner-friendly as they glide on smoothly and work particularly well on creased or less firm eyelids.
Generally, the softer the eyeliner, the more experimental you can afford to be with shades. Warm copper, aubergine and forest green might be a bit extreme as an opaque liquid line, but look beautiful in smoked-up pencil or creamy gel form.
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How to apply eyeliner—three techniques
No matter which product you're using, a steady hand will serve you well. "Do not rush or hold the eyeliner too tightly, steady your elbows on a surface or tuck them into your body. Keep your eyes open and use a magnifying mirror if it helps," advises Ruby.
Technique one—pencil liner
Pencil liners have a naturally smudgier look than their fluid friends, which makes them more novice-friendly. "The great thing about using a pencil liner is that it doesn’t have to be neat!" explains Carly. "If using a pencil, look to simply dot or scribble along the lash line to fill in the gaps between your lashes, don’t try and draw a straight line. Then softly run a brush back and forth over your scribble to break up the product and soften the line. This gives definition in a quick and easy way."
Technique two—liquid liner
"Hold the pen horizontal and flat to your eye with the tip facing your nose. Using the tip of the pen, start in the very inner corner of your eye. Lightly drag the pen slowly towards your outer eye and stop," says Carly. "If you wish to create a flick this should be placed where your last eyelash would be. Switch the angle of your pen so the tip is facing your ear and draw your flick, this can then be joined with your liner."
Technique three—gel eyeliner
Gel eyeliner is many makeup artists' choice for superior control. Follow Bobbi Brown's protocol: "Begin by lining in the middle of the lash line and move to the outside corner of the eye. Gently lift the lid to get close to the eye. Apply the liner in smooth strokes. Next, apply all the way to the inner corner of the eye. Make sure the eyeliner is thicker at the outer corner, gradually thinning the line toward the inner corner. Try not to leave space between the eyeliner and the lash line. If there is a space, fill it in with the same shade of powdered eyeshadow."
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How to apply eyeliner on creased lids
Creased lids can give a puffy eyes appearance and make learning how to apply eyeliner tough, but not impossible. "If eyeliner doesn’t compliment the shape of your eye, you just haven’t found the right product or style," explains Carly. "Makeup should evolve the way our faces do. As I have gotten older, I use a softer brown pencil and place it in the top outer corner rather than a full black line across the whole eye. I’m still defining my eye, but now I use it as a way of lifting the eye and adding a more fluttery feel."
Ruby agrees the basic principles can be adapted to any eye. "If you have creased eyelids, you can still wear eyeliner. Just keep it close to your lash line and in between the hairs and skin—no need for dramatic wings." When applying makeup for hooded eyes Ruby recommends a similar protocol, "Follow your natural eye shape and kick it upwards at the end to lift the eye." If you really struggle, consider whether mascara vs eyeliner is better for creating definition on creased lids. Sometimes building up mascara at the base can have a liner-like effect, sans smudging.
Mastering how to apply eyeliner for your eye shape isn't the end of the story, your liner should represent your personality too. "Think about what you want your eyes to say," says Carly. "Twiggy used eyeliner to create a doe-eyed look by bringing it lower on the outer corner. Adele uses liner in a more cat-eye solid flick to elongate her eyes, Sophia Loren's liner enlarged her eye shape by including a bottom liner. Have a play around, try different styles and have fun!"
What do do if you make a mistake
Don't panic. There's no need to wash the whole thing off and start from scratch, tempting as that may be. Having a few tools handy for swift clean-up will make it feel less stressful when the inevitable happens. "If you're anything like me, eyeliner and mistakes come hand in hand!" laughs Carly.
"Keep a few pointed Q Tips (I like the ones from Muji) and the best micellar water for tidy-ups," advises Ruby. "Or you can tidy up the edges with concealer and a fine brush."
As with most things in life, it's prudent to apply the philosophy that mistakes will happen but it's how you deal with them that counts. So go forth, try not to get flustered, and define those beautiful eyes!
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woman&home thanks Ruby Hammer, Carly Utting and Bobbi brown for their time and expertise
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