How to find the right lipstick shade, according to an expert make-up artist

Wondering how to find the perfect lipstick for your complexion? A pro reveals how - and the one colour that suits everyone

A gold sparkly frame containing a close up shot of a woman turned in profile holding a red lipstick, with red glossy lips and pearl earrings
(Image credit: Getty Images)

Faced with a rainbow of classic reds, elegant neutrals or colour-pop brights, you may be wondering how to find the right lipstick shade to suit you.

It’s easy to be swept up in a sea of colourful bullets, and even easier to find yourself with a makeup bag full of shades that haven’t been used since the '90s. If you’re looking for the best red lipstick or perfect nude and don’t know where to start, you've come to the right place.

Much like the pursuit of the perfect pair of jeans, finding a lipstick to suit the subtleties of skin tone is no easy feat, so we’ve done the hard work for you with a guide on how to find the right lipstick shade for your complexion and bag a lipstick you’re sure to love. It’s time to meet your match.

How to find the right lipstick shade to suit you

1. Work out your undertone

When we think about skin tone, we’re talking about how light or deep your skin is, which can change depending on how exposed to the sun you are. What’s more integral is your unique undertone, which refers to the base of your skin. “It’s not just about colour,” explains Emily Simms, No7 Global Makeup Artist and Educator. “Understanding your skin’s undertone is the key to finding your ultimate shade.” So are you warm, cool or neutral?

“If you’re unsure, an easy way to check your undertone is to look at your wrists,” advises Emily. “If your veins appear more blue or purple, you’re likely cool-toned (pink-based), but if they look more green, you’re likely to have warm-toned skin (golden-based). If you’re somewhere in between, you likely have neutral undertones.” Emily also suggests looking in your jewellery box to work out your base, if you can't see the veins. “If you suit gold jewellery, you’re likely to prefer warmer, more orangey or browner tones, while fans of silver jewellery will prefer cooler pink or plum tones.”

Cool undertones:

If your veins lean towards blue-purple, you suit silver jewellery and you’re likely to burn in the sun, lip shades with bluish tones, like cherry reds, rosy nudes and magenta pink will complement.

Warm undertones:

Generally speaking, if your skin has olive, golden and yellow tones, and you tan easily, you can enhance your natural glow in warm lipstick shades like brick reds, coral and peachy nudes. Conversely, Emily often reaches for “lipsticks with a blue-toned base like plum-toned nudes or deep burgundy reds to make a statement.”

Neutral undertones:

Given that you suit both gold and silver jewellery, you naturally have a lot of options when it comes to choosing a lipstick shade. “For neutral undertones, the beauty is in the versatility,” says Emily. “Mauve, rose, and soft nudes complement neutral skin perfectly.”

2. Test it out

Now that you’ve nailed your undertone, it’s time to get swatching. “When it comes to finding the best colour lipstick for you, there’s no better way than to try it on your lips,” advises Emily. “We each have a unique shade to our lips that can alter the way lipstick looks and wears. If you want to try on any shades, you can pop into a Boots store and ask one of the No7 Beauty Advisors to suggest the perfect shades for you.”

If you’re enjoying a day of IRL Christmas shopping, then popping to the beauty counter makes a nice little pit stop, but what if, like most of us, you’re taking a punt on your pout from your phone? “Shopping for lipstick online can feel daunting, but arm and lip swatches are your best friend,” says Emily. “Look for swatches on models with a similar skin tone to yours and remember that lighting can also affect how a shade looks.”

3. Embrace AI technology

Nowadays, we can do just about anything from home - meet a soulmate, do the big food shop, join a spin class. If you can’t make it to the beauty counter, many brands like NYX, Maybelline and Lancôme now offer virtual makeup tools, where trying on a multitude of lipsticks is as effortless as ordering an emergency batch of coffee pods on Amazon. Using AI technology, these try-on tools help take the guesswork out of finding the right lipstick shade to suit. Use a live image or upload a photo of yourself to give a realistic view of how each colour may look on you.

If you would feel more comfortable with some expert advice, some brands now offer 1-2-1 virtual consultations with experts. At MAC, you can choose between a 30- and 60-minute session - both completely free - to chat through specific looks, be matched with your perfect shades and be shown a tutorial unique to you. Charlotte Tilbury also offers a menu of complimentary appointments, from foundation finding and bridal tricks to ‘ask anything’. More in-depth tutorials come with a fee but this is redeemable against any products you buy during or after your consultation.

4. Try a suits-all shade

Like the little black dress of the makeup world, there are a few magical lipstick shades that look fantastic on everyone. Trust the pro makeup artist: “If you’re ever unsure, go for a classic shade that flatters everyone,” says Emily. “Rosy pinks and neutral mauves are great options for all skin tones because they balance warmth and coolness. For a bold choice, stick to a true red, that’s perfectly balanced between warm and cool - it’s timeless and looks stunning on everyone.”

5. Do what makes you feel good

Above all else, makeup should be fun, and lipstick is one of the most transformative, joy-sparking elements of any cosmetics bag. It is a truth universally acknowledged that a slick of bright lipstick can have a positive impact on your mood. Think about one of those bleak, grey days where you just feel a bit ‘eurgh’, and how much better you’ve felt for getting dressed and putting your face on.

A slick of lipstick is a quick way to make you feel groomed and put together, boosting confidence and self-esteem. It’s the ultimate dopamine purchase. So if you want to wear the deepest almost-black matte to work or throw on your brightest pink to pop to the post office, just do it!

Stephanie Maylor

Stephanie Maylor is a Beauty Editor working across five national magazine titles, with almost 15 years' experience in the industry.  She has written for many brands, including woman&home, Grazia, Now, More!, Fabulous, NW, Woman, Woman's Own, Woman's Weekly, Essentials, Best, Chat, and OK! online. 

In 2010 she launched her own beauty blog, which was shortlisted for Best Beauty Blog in the 2011 and 2012 Johnson & Johnson Beauty Journalism Awards. She has interviewed many high profile industry experts and celebrities including Alesha Dixon, Twiggy and Christina Hendricks.