What to know before getting a hair gloss – AKA a one-way ticket to shinier hair

The world of hair colouring and treatments has come a long way. Hair glosses are a great example of a service that’s gained a lot of traction in the past 10 years for their ability to impart serious shine and juicy colour onto strands.

Not to be confused with the best hair masks, these treatments are shine-boosting formulas that often incorporate a wash of colour, too. “I like to think of hair glosses like you would makeup,” says Harriet Muldoon, Redken advocate and colourist at Larry King salons. “Just like dewy foundation or liquid blushers, glosses give the hair a natural healthy glow.”

These treatments can be applied by your hairdresser in-salon for supercharged results, or take the form of an at-home product. “Think of them like skincare," Harriet continues. "You wouldn’t expect one product to give you glass skin, it’s a routine – but there’s usually one serum or active product that’s a secret weapon. It’s the same with hair.” Glosses could be that very secret weapon your hair regime has been missing.

What to know before getting a hair gloss, according to hairdressers 

As somebody who loves these treatments, hair glosses are a service I wholeheartedly recommend, but it’s important to know what you can – and can’t – expect from the results before you book one. So, with the help of two leading hair colourists, I’ve broken down everything you need to know in this guide.

1. You'll need a patch test

If you have never had a professional hair gloss before, you’ll need to pop into your salon of choice at least a few days ahead of a treatment for a patch test. “In salon-glosses require a patch test as they have more potent formulas,” Harriet explains. Your hairdresser will advise on the salon’s policy regarding how long before treatment you should have your patch test, but if you observe no adverse reactions from either a professional or at-home formula within 48 hours, you should be good to go.

2. It's different to semi-permanent and permanent colour

The results of hair glosses don’t last quite as long as a semi-permanent or permanent dye, the latter of which penetrates the hair for longer-lasting colour. “A gloss is sheer, whereas a semi-permanent will have more pigment so would add more depth and more richness,” explains Zoë Irwin, creative director at John Frieda Salons and editorial, colour and trend ambassador for Matrix. “For example, you would never get a burgundy tone with a fine gloss.

“Generally, if I had to sum it up, I’d say a gloss [achieves] the highest reflect that you can get in the hair – hair that really has that ‘ultra shine’ in the way that a glossy top coat looks on a nail,” she continues. “You get a lot of shine, sheerness of colour and a lot of smoothness, because it’s an acidic product that shuts down the cuticle. You get this great finish on the hair that I don’t think you get from other [services]."

3. It won't cover grey

More and more people are choosing to let their natural grey hair come in – and glosses can be a great way to enhance and complement grey. “Think of this as contouring your hair,” says Harriet. “Colour glosses are a great option for those looking to embrace and bring out their greys, adding depth and dimension.

“I recommend Redken Shades EQ for anyone nervous to try a permanent colour or who just wants to bring out existing tones in a way that will naturally fade, avoiding harsh regrowth lines,” she continues. “These are a liquid colour, so I’d use two or three tones at a time to blend in with natural grey hair, adding tone and depth. It’s limited commitment while embracing your natural grey.” However, if you are looking for coverage rather than enhancement of said grey hair, Harriet confirms permanent colour would be the recommendation here.

4. It doesn't always involve colour

Though they are often used as part of a colour service, many hair gloss formulas also come in clear to boost the shine of your existing colour. “We do loads of clear glosses as part of treatments,” Zoë explains. “It’s like an amazing cosmetic finish that you can’t get with other formulas, simply because of hair glosses’ technical make-up. It’s a sheerness. I call it liquifying.”

At-home glosses have also been created to deliver similar results to those achieved in-salon. “All glosses will add an element of shine to your hair, the difference is in how long they last and whether they add colour, too,” Harriet adds. And while in-salon options will ultimately last longer, “At-home hair glosses, like the Redken Acidic Color Gloss Activated Glass Gloss Treatment, are a great option to add colour-free shine at home – but they will help preserve any colour, too!”

5. Results aren't super long-lasting

Though it varies based on the product used and how often you wash your hair, hair glosses tend to last between 4–6 washes on average. “Hair glosses aren’t permanent, but some do last longer than others,” Harriet confirms. “Professional salon glosses like Redken Shades EQ last around 28 washes, while at-home innovations like Redken’s Acidic Color Gloss Activated Glass Gloss Treatment bring back shine for up to three days.”

The flip side of this is that experimenting with colour is less of a commitment with hair glosses; if you decide you don’t fully love a specific shade, it will fade sooner. “People love glosses because you can change the tone [of the hair],” Zoë confirms. Particularly in the case of lightened hair, “One month your hair could be one colour and the next it could be something else.”

Because this colour is subtler and fades with time, Zoë notes that regrowth is also nowhere near as obvious as the solid line that creeps in after permanent colour. “You’ll never have that longevity, so it’s a safe thing to do,” she adds. However, if you are committed to a specific colour and want it to last for as long as possible, the sheer effect of a hair gloss may not be the right choice for you. Your hairdresser will be able to advise.

6. It's not a moisturising treatment – which your hair needs, too

While the shiny results of a gloss are undoubtedly dazzling, it is important to see this treatment as part of your wider routine – much like Harriet alluded to earlier. Your hair still needs moisture and repair alongside that shine boost.

“What I’m concerned about with the glossing market is that [people may think] it replaces things that you should be doing for hydration and strength,” Zoë tells us. She notes that when bonding products became more popular and widely available, they quickly became over-used in place of other treatments and it’s only recently that we’ve collectively course-corrected. “Do not think that an at-home glossing treatment replaces a hydrating or strengthening mask. I like to think of it as a cosmetic finish.”

Our at-home hair glossing and shine-boosting essentials

Why we recommend a hair gloss 

While permanent and more traditional semi-permanent colouring services will always have a place, the benefits of a gloss – with or without colour – are clear. Whether or not you choose to add a sheer wash of a different tone to your existing colour or incorporate a gloss into a grey blending look, they are very low commitment and a fun way to tweak your look if you aren’t committed to one signature colour. On that note, we’ve shared a few of our favourite shine-boosting haircare products to help you achieve that supercharged shine from the comfort of your own home.