Everything you need to know about keratin treatments for Afro hair, by the pros

Salon keratin treatments are booming - our expert guide reveals all about the process, results and after-effects on Afro-textured hair

A close up of the back of a woman's head with curly Afro-textured hair/ in a pink template
(Image credit: Getty Images/Ranta Images)

Keratin treatments have become more popular over the years, with people across the hair texture spectrum opting for the treatment to smooth their hair. If you struggle with frizz or the weather affecting your hairstyle, this semi-permanent treatment can be a great choice for maintaining super smooth, humidity-resistant hair.

If you’re someone with Afro-textured hair who prefers to wear it straight - and thus spend a lot of time straightening it at home or silk pressing it in a salon - then considering a professional or at-home keratin treatment isn’t a bad idea. It’ll cut a lot of time out of your styling routine and will mean that rain and humid weather are not the enemy. However, it doesn’t come without its cons, like most chemical services. If you don’t start with healthy hair, it can cause further damage. Plus, the way you look after your hair - especially caring for Afro-textured hair - when you have the treatment on, really affects the way your hair looks and feels afterwards.

So, if you’re thinking about getting a keratin treatment for your Afro hair, here is everything you need to know, with expertise from the professionals.

What to know about keratin treatments for Afro hair

As with all treatments that involve chemicals, heat and long-lasting effects, it's important to be fully clued in on what the service entails and all the pros and potential cons. So, let us first delve into what a keratin treatment can offer Afro-textured hair.

How does keratin treatment work for Afro hair?

Keratin treatments smooth and straighten hair by applying a chemical solution onto the hair and sealing it by using heat. The product sits on top of the hair cuticle and coats it - this is what makes it semi-permanent, as it doesn’t penetrate the hair bonds and change the texture of the hair but coats it and sets the texture in place with heat.

"Keratin treatments smooth and make the hair more manageable," says Pash Mitchell, Avlon Educator and Afro hair specialist. "They can help straighten and smooth and defrizz textured hair." The end result of a keratin treatment for any hair type will always be straighter hair - this styling outcome will be the same for as long as the treatment lasts on your hair.

The longevity of a keratin treatment is dependent on the brand, but it can last from eight weeks to six months on the hair. This is something to bear in mind if you are someone who loves to play around with the versatility of Afro-textured hair, as you won’t have your coily hair texture revert to normal for at least two months; a real commitment to the straight look.

Why would you get a keratin treatment on Afro hair?

There are many reasons why keratin is a great option for Afro-textured hair specifically. The biggest reason is often that it helps to reduce the amount of time spent styling hair at home. "Treated hair typically requires less time and effort for styling, as it is easier to straighten and maintain," notes Mitchell. Contextually, this is mainly applicable if you often style your Afro-textured hair in a straight style, as it can be time-consuming to do.

Does keratin damage Afro hair?

The idea that keratin treatments are immediately damaging to Afro-textured hair is misleading. As it’s a chemical treatment that uses heat, it can make hair more susceptible to damage. That's why you have to be selective with who performs the treatment, so you know that they will carry out a good service and arm you with aftercare knowledge. "Some can be harsh on the hair and scalp or create build-up, especially with frequent application," says Mitchell. "It's important to consult with a trusted stylist and consider your hair type, lifestyle, and budget before deciding whether to get a keratin treatment."

It's also essential to remember that frequently using heat on the hair will change your hair’s texture. So, while the treatment will wash off eventually if you have been using excess heat for the duration that it is on your hair, your hair may not revert to the same curl pattern as before the treatment.

Tips on maintaining healthy afro hair with a keratin treatment

Here, Pash Mitchell shares his six healthy hair tips for when styling keratin-treated hair...

  1. Wait before washing: Follow the manufacturer's or your stylist's instructions. Avoid washing your hair for at least three to five days after the treatment to allow the keratin to set properly.
  2. Use sulphate-free products: Use shampoos and conditioners that are sulphate-free to avoid decreasing the lifespan of your keratin treatment and drying out your hair.
  3. Avoid excessive heat styling: Minimise the use of heat styling tools like straighteners and hair dryers, as excessive heat can cause the keratin to break down faster or cause heat damage to your hair.
  4. Protect your hair: Use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools and avoid exposure to chlorine and saltwater, as they can strip the keratin from your hair.
  5. Deep conditioning treatments: Incorporate regular deep conditioning treatments into your hair care routine to keep your hair hydrated and nourished as the key to healthy hair is moisture.
  6. Touch-up treatments: Consider getting touch-up treatments every few months to maintain the smoothness and manageability of your hair and new hair growth.
Keeks Reid

Keeks is a London-based beauty writer and content creator. She has worked with titles including Cosmopolitan, VOGUE, Refinery29, Red, Elle, OK! and woman&home. While she has a well-rounded beauty obsession, her specialism is all things hair.

When she’s not testing the latest hair tool on camera or waxing lyrical about styling tips, you’ll find her re-watching old episodes of Real Housewives of Beverly Hills (or New York or Atlanta). She loves a social scroll as well as a romantic book, but nothing beats Sunday afternoon lunches with her friends and family. You can catch Keeks on all social platforms @keeksreid.