Is your skin dehydrated or dry? The symptoms, similarities and how to treat both

Consider the differences between dehydrated vs dry skin. You might be hard-pressed to come up with any. The effects of dryness and dehydration may look and feel similar but they are completely different skin conditions with distinct needs.

As we head into winter, most of us will experience a dry feeling at some point, whether that's scratchy patches, a lacklustre complexion or skin that feels tight. Although the terms are often used interchangeably, there is a big difference between dry vs dehydrated skin and the skincare routine you should follow for each. “Dry skin is a skin type that lacks oil, making it feel rough, flaky, and tight,” explains Dr Shereene Idriss, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology and Dr. Idriss Skincare. So if you’re suddenly experiencing a parched, tight feeling, chances are you’re experiencing dehydration rather than dryness.

Still confused? We’ve enlisted trusted experts to help break down the difference between dehydrated vs dry skin and spot the tell-tale signs of each to get you back on track to quenched, hydrated, healthy skin.

What’s the difference between dehydrated vs dry skin?

Simply put, dry skin is a skin type; dehydrated skin is a skin concern. “Dry and dehydrated skin can feel and look very similar, but they are actually two different entities with different causes,” explains Dr Malvina Cunningham, consultant dermatologist.

Dry skin: Dry skin is a skin type, just like oily, combination, normal and sensitive. “Dry skin lacks oil, making it feel rough, flaky, and tight,” says Dr Idriss. “This is usually due to genetics or environmental factors like cold weather, and it tends to worsen with the use of harsh soaps or hot showers.”

The ageing process has an impact too. “As we age our skin becomes progressively drier, especially in midlife when oil production is reduced, making skin more sensitive and susceptible to the appearance of fine lines,” explains Dr Cunningham.

Dehydrated skin: This is a temporary condition characterised by a lack of water in the uppermost layer of the skin, rather than a shortage of oil. Crucially, dehydrated skin can affect any skin type. As Dr Cunningham says, “An individual can have dry skin or even oily skin that is dehydrated making it also look and feel dull, dry, rough and tight.”

Dr Cunningham lists the causes as, “inappropriate skincare products that are too stripping (for example harsh cleansers or overuse of acids and exfoliators), environmental factors such as sun exposure, hot showers and baths, central heating and not drinking enough water.”

How does dry or dehydrated skin look?

Dry skin: There are overlapping outward symptoms, such as roughness and a loss of elasticity, but according to Dr Idriss, “Dry skin appears flaky and rough with visible dry patches, often resulting in a dull complexion.”

Dehydrated skin: “In contrast,” she explains, “dehydrated skin looks dull and tired, with fine lines, particularly around the eyes and mouth, but can also appear oily as the skin compensates for moisture loss.” Many people confuse dehydrated skin with premature ageing when fine lines might just be a sign of dehydration.

What does dry or dehydrated skin feel like?

Dry skin: “Dry skin and dehydrated skin share several characteristics, including a feeling of tightness,” explains Dr Idriss. However, dry skin has a tendency to feel more sensitive to the touch and is more susceptible to dry skin conditions like eczema and dermatitis. It can become itchy, particularly after cleansing.

Dehydrated skin: Healthy, hydrated skin contains approximately 30% water. When this level drops, the skin becomes dehydrated. The water loss can disturb the barrier function so skin starts to feel tight and itchy. You might notice that these outward symptoms come and go depending on the time of year and lifestyle changes.

How can I treat dry skin?

“For dry skin, skincare needs to focus on avoiding stripping oil from the skin and using slightly richer skincare that has a higher oil content,” advises Dr Cunningham. “Go for moisturisers that contain emollients such as shea butter, squalene, lipids and ceramides. Humectants are also very useful such as ectoin, hyaluronic acid and urea.”

How can I treat dehydrated skin?

Make sure you’re drinking enough water and wash with lukewarm water - hot water strips the skin. Cutting your caffeine and alcohol intake will help prevent your skin from becoming dehydrated. “Having a humidifier is also super helpful to add moisture and combat dehydration, especially in dry or cold environments,” says Dr Idriss.

As far as skincare goes, “Look for products that are friendly to the skin barrier,” suggests Dr Cunningham. “Use moisturisers and serums, which contain barrier-friendly ingredients that also draw moisture into the skin, such as glycerin, ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and urea.”

Can I test if I have dehydrated or dry skin?

“The ‘pinch test’ is widely quoted as a method of telling if your skin is dehydrated but I do not think this is accurate,” warns Dr Cunningham. “It involves pinching the back of your hand and if it doesn’t bounce back within three seconds it’s a sign of dehydration.” Rather than using this unreliable method, Dr Cunningham advocates the use of in-clinic machines. “They can measure the water content in the skin more accurately. A dermatologist will be able to make a diagnosis by taking a careful history and examination.”

At home, meanwhile, the very best test is how your skin feels. “If your skin feels tight after cleansing and lacks oil, you likely have dry skin,” clarifies Dr Idriss. “In contrast, if your skin appears dull and still feels tight after applying hydrating serums and moisturisers, you’re most likely dehydrated.”